Knitware Merchandising
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Knitted Fabric Faults
Fabric Barriness
1. Barriness defect appears in the Knitted fabric in the form of horizontal stripes of uniform or variable width.
2. Sometimes it is referred as barrie effect.
Broken needle
Horizontal Line
Fly Contamination
Pin Hole
Sinker Mark
Stains or Oil Line
Fabric Press Off
Lycra Out
Shade Variation or Uneven Shade
Crease Mark
Dye Spot
Dead Cotton
4 Point System for Fabric Inspection
It is a system developed by AAQC (American Association of Quality Control) and widely used for fabric inspection. In this method defected points are found out in 100 square yards of fabric by inspection. The fabric must be rejected if the defected points are greater than 40.
Defects Length
Points
Up to 3”
≥ 3″ − ≤ 6″
≥ 6″ − ≤ 9″
Above 9″
Any Hole
Spirality of Garments
Spirality appears in the form of a twisted garment, after washing. The seams on both the sides of the garment displace, from their position & appear on the front & back of the garment.
Spirality of Fabric
Spirality” arises from twist stress in the constituent yams of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree. Inclination of loops within knitted structures is commonly known as spirality.
Problems of Spirality
Displacement of the side seams to the back and front
Mismatched patterns
Asymmetrical necklines
Inclined slits
Cutting and sewing difficulties
Decreases fabric utilization during cutting
Spirality becomes more prominent when widthwise striping (cross over effect).
Measurement of Spirality of Garments
Final Inspection of Garments
The AQL inspection takes the samples from a goods, inspect them and depends on the quality of samples inspected and decide to accept or reject them.
In garments sector, single sampling plan of 2.5% and 4.0% AQL are mostly used.
Garments Defects
Critical Defect such as metal part, fungus attack, label mistake etc. ( If any critical defect found garments lot will be rejected that means no consideration)
Major defect (Mainly used in AQL)
Minor defect ( Combindly 2 or 3 minor defects are considered as one major defect depends on buyer requirement )
H&M buyer consider 3 minor as 1 major defect
Example
Assume AQL is 2.5% and lot size is 3500 garments, find out the following :
The total number of samples need to inspect
The acceptable