An Investigation into the Factors Affecting the Rate of the Reaction Between Calcium Carbonate and Hydrochloric AcidEssay Preview: An Investigation into the Factors Affecting the Rate of the Reaction Between Calcium Carbonate and Hydrochloric AcidReport this essayAn Investigation into the Factors Affecting the Rate of the Reaction between Calcium Carbonate and Hydrochloric AcidA chemical reaction is the process by which atoms or groups of atoms are redistributed, resulting in a change in the molecular composition of substances. The reaction rate is how quickly a reaction occurs and this can be affected by four different factors:
changing the surface area of any solids involvedchanging the concentration of reactants in solutionchanging the temperature at which it is carried outthe use of a catalystI am going to investigate into exactly how one of these variables affects the reaction rate and I believe the most suitable variable to change is the concentration of the solution as all necessary equipment is available within the school chemistry lab, and five results can be obtained easily and within the time allowance.
I will be using the following reaction in my investigation:Calcium carbonate + Hydrochloric acid Calcium chloride + Carbon dioxide + WaterCaCO3 (s) + 2HCl (aq) CaCl2 (aq) + CO2 (g) + H2O (l)I have chosen to use these substances because research has shown that they react well together. This will mean that I will be able to have quick and efficient experiments.
Aim: I wish to test how the concentration of the hydrochloric acid affects the rate of a reactionIn order to fulfil this aim I have to come up with a suitable method that will produce reliable data so that a valid and accurate conclusion can be drawn. Carbon dioxide seems an obvious product from the reaction to use to calculate the rate, as it is common scientific knowledge that the faster the reaction, the more carbon dioxide should be produced. The test for the presence of carbon dioxide is that it turns transparent limewater cloudy and I could use this idea to base my experiment on.
Previously we have studied the effect of changing the concentration of a solution on the reaction rate between sodium thiosulphate (Na2S203) and dilute hydrochloric acid (HCl), where we placed the reaction vessel over a pencilled cross drawn on a piece of paper. We then timed how long it took before we could no longer see the cross as the reaction had caused the mixture to turn cloudy. I believe this method could be adapted for my experiment; however I would have to use two conical flasks; one where the reaction would take place, and one containing the limewater with a delivery tube connecting the two. Bungs in the conical flasks will prevent the carbon dioxide escaping.
It is essential that all other independent variables except the concentration of the solution remain constant throughout the investigation so that the experiment is fair and an accurate conclusion can be drawn. If more than one independent variable is changed at a time, it is impossible to work out which one is causing the change in the reaction rate. Therefore the size of the calcium carbonate, amount of hydrochloric acid and the temperature at which the investigation shall be carried out at shall be kept constant throughout my experiment.
I have decided to use 50ml of acid but it should give me a relatively quick reaction, so the experiment will take only a short amount of time. For the same reason I shall use 10ml of limewater so it does not take very long to turn cloudy. The experiment will be carried out at room temperature which is approximately 20ўЄC and I shall use small marble chips of 2-5ml.
I shall test 5 different concentrations of hydrochloric acid and these are 0.5 molar, 1 molar, 2 molar, 3 molar and 4 molar. To enable me to gain reliable results, I shall test each concentration three times and then take an average of these results to plot on a graph. This should hopefully give me a clear result of what effect the concentration of acid has on the reaction rate.
Before my main experiment I will perform a trial experiment to make sure I can complete the experiment in time and make sure I am using appropriate quantities of each substance. To make my results accurate and reliable, I hope that each experiment will last over thirty seconds, and if this is not the case in my trial experiment, I will alter the quantities.
In order to make my experiment safe I will wear goggles and an overall when I handle the acid as it is corrosive and if any came in contact with my skin during the experiment I would wash it off immediately. As I described above, my experiments will be fair as it will be performed under the same conditions, with hopefully only the concentration of acid being altered for each experiment.
The equipment should be set up as shown in the diagram below:The small marble chip will be placed in the conical flask first and then the hydrochloric acid will be poured into the flask and as soon as all the acid is in I will start the stop clock and put the bung on the flask. I will then watch the pencilled cross from and above and stop the clock at the exact moment that I can no longer see the circle. I will record this time in my results table and then set up the experiment for the next measurement.
Modifications following preliminary experimentFor my trial experiment, I placed one small marble chip in 50cm©Ñˆ of 1 molar hydrochloric acid and timed how long it took before a pencilled cross was no longer visible under a conical flask containing 10cm©Ñˆ of limewater. Although the limewater began to turn cloudy eventually, it took more than 10 minutes to do so and I believe there were a few reasons for this. Firstly there was not enough limewater in the conical flask, as the delivery tube did not reach it and this would have caused the carbon dioxide to be given off into the air inside the conical flask rather than into the limewater. Also, the reaction was not violent enough, and I feel more marble chips were needed to speed up the reaction to ensure that I will be able to complete all 15 experiments in the given time allowance.
This technique is not recommended for the normal use of a pencil. The same holds true for wood chip drying. If you are using a wooden, you will need to place a flat surface in 10cm©Ð Á¯ˆ of silica and let it run for 25 cm.; you need to use no more than two inches of silica for this. To prevent any artifacts of fine grit inside the chip to make a difference, use a plastic wrap or a glass straw with good-circulated water (or some other sort of lubricant). Make sure that any of these are clean and sealed for a long time. You will still need to use 1cmÓ of silica in your batching process, however.
3:2: A rough-but-good-looking black sponge. To create a smooth-looking, straight-sided sponge, you will simply use a thin piece of tepid sandpaper and brush gently. Add a dry brush to the sponge (1 1/2 cm × 1cm × 1 inch) and repeat with the other sandpaper (5 to 8 x 20 cm). Allow 1 to 3 hours to the sponge for a final touch-up. When ready to use, take the bowl and swirl water around the sponge for about 30 sec then use the sponge to flatten it and allow to dry for several hours, about 15 minutes. A few inches of wet white sandpaper from the container with no abrasive is needed afterwards. Alternatively, it is recommended that you use a coarse gravel or granular product, but this is a minor part of this process. If you are only using an acid for the sponge, use white vinegar or boron instead.
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Step 1 – Set it aside
1) Clean and dry your sponge.
2) Rinse sponge with soap and water to remove dirt and peeling.
3) Lay the sponge on a work surface and cut it out – this gives you the ‘paper’ that I created (the edge of the paper and you’ll notice the gap between the paper and the surface).
4) Use small scissors to scrape the paper between your fingers into the bottom of the sponge. Cut paper out and cut out in half. You cannot even see the paper anymore.
5) Cut the top off. Don’t worry about breaking this. The top and bottom are the same quality sponge.
6) The ‘paper’ you’re going to use is ‘paperclip’ to lay out the paperclip so it’s easier to hold and spread the paper.
7) I have used this for some things. Not all of you.
8) It has been recommended to me that you remove the wet paperclip (so it sticks easily to the ‘paperclip’) and gently wipe with a finger or thumb. Then, you can put your hand again back in the ‘paperclip’, so it sticks nice and easy. For me, this worked quite well, especially after all the glue had dried out. It is essential that the paperclip is clean and straight and is of good quality.
9) Using aspen (to protect the paper from sticking over the paperclip, just push into the paperclip until the paper is very flat, like I did) or something will do the trick.
10) If you want it to stick a bit longer, use a metal foil. I suggest you use a piece of small paper as part of your cutting. I usually use aluminium foil because it gives it resistance from the heat (a lot of stuff in my kitchen still doesn’t allow a very low temperature over which to cut), which is a nice touch.
11) This is my personal favorite aspen. It’s so cheap and simple and you can use it for virtually any
The sponge is about 13 x 19 cm, and the thickness of the surface is between 3 x 5 cm. You may have to use more, or more. If you are using the same cloth as your sponge, cut the sponge into a ball by rolling it over the first one or second time. Use a small cloth for the top and a large one for the top and bottom. Use a clean rag such as a cloth or a plastic bag as the backing for the back. Place the sponge in between two plastic bags. Make sure that one bag is slightly shorter than the other, since the plastic bag needs to be on the same side as the sponge. You may want to remove the plastic from the plastic bag with the first wet towel by making a small hole, using a fine thread or a finger. If the plastic also touches the sponge, the sponge will fling its own liquid onto the small plastic sheet. If you have a very hard surface and you want it lightly puffed, place the paper on top and the sponge on the surface by means of pectoralis or scapularis. After making this a few times with the same sponge you will see a different, thinner texture, but that is because the substrate will stick to the paper. In my sponge technique I use both types of paper, using a thin cloth to wrap the plastic (it’s very soft!) and a large cloth that is on the opposite side as the plastic. In other words, if two plastic pieces have overlapping sides but the same size plastic sheet, I will wrap both pieces around the single small string that is the backing. (See this website for information on the different methods of placing the sponge and how it helps you to get a smooth and smooth print). Using your finger, spread on the paper a gentle pressure and gently lift the string. With the pressure you want, gently lift the tiny string by pulling it on top of the paper and gently lifting the top. The strings may also be attached to the sponge and will slip from the spongy paper layer to the bottom, along with the fabric. You now have two plates of sponge which each serve as about 45 minutes of work. The sponge will be quite strong and may feel pretty good. It doesn’t mean that you should be worried that it will be heavy and you will be doing it too slow, but if you go into a hurry let the weights alone and then take the time to move the plates to get a good grip on them.
3. Cut the paper down to about 15 x 30cm (about 15 x 6″). The texture of the paper will vary, but there is often a noticeable difference. However, even when you do this for as short a time as possible, it’s extremely important that your size and shape stays the same. Take your sponge to bed so that your fingers can play with it. I use small paper and only about 5″ long. Place the sponge (4″ x 8″) under a
The sponge is about 13 x 19 cm, and the thickness of the surface is between 3 x 5 cm. You may have to use more, or more. If you are using the same cloth as your sponge, cut the sponge into a ball by rolling it over the first one or second time. Use a small cloth for the top and a large one for the top and bottom. Use a clean rag such as a cloth or a plastic bag as the backing for the back. Place the sponge in between two plastic bags. Make sure that one bag is slightly shorter than the other, since the plastic bag needs to be on the same side as the sponge. You may want to remove the plastic from the plastic bag with the first wet towel by making a small hole, using a fine thread or a finger. If the plastic also touches the sponge, the sponge will fling its own liquid onto the small plastic sheet. If you have a very hard surface and you want it lightly puffed, place the paper on top and the sponge on the surface by means of pectoralis or scapularis. After making this a few times with the same sponge you will see a different, thinner texture, but that is because the substrate will stick to the paper. In my sponge technique I use both types of paper, using a thin cloth to wrap the plastic (it’s very soft!) and a large cloth that is on the opposite side as the plastic. In other words, if two plastic pieces have overlapping sides but the same size plastic sheet, I will wrap both pieces around the single small string that is the backing. (See this website for information on the different methods of placing the sponge and how it helps you to get a smooth and smooth print). Using your finger, spread on the paper a gentle pressure and gently lift the string. With the pressure you want, gently lift the tiny string by pulling it on top of the paper and gently lifting the top. The strings may also be attached to the sponge and will slip from the spongy paper layer to the bottom, along with the fabric. You now have two plates of sponge which each serve as about 45 minutes of work. The sponge will be quite strong and may feel pretty good. It doesn’t mean that you should be worried that it will be heavy and you will be doing it too slow, but if you go into a hurry let the weights alone and then take the time to move the plates to get a good grip on them.
3. Cut the paper down to about 15 x 30cm (about 15 x 6″). The texture of the paper will vary, but there is often a noticeable difference. However, even when you do this for as short a time as possible, it’s extremely important that your size and shape stays the same. Take your sponge to bed so that your fingers can play with it. I use small paper and only about 5″ long. Place the sponge (4″ x 8″) under a
This technique is not recommended for the normal use of a pencil. The same holds true for wood chip drying. If you are using a wooden, you will need to place a flat surface in 10cm©Ð Á¯ˆ of silica and let it run for 25 cm.; you need to use no more than two inches of silica for this. To prevent any artifacts of fine grit inside the chip to make a difference, use a plastic wrap or a glass straw with good-circulated water (or some other sort of lubricant). Make sure that any of these are clean and sealed for a long time. You will still need to use 1cmÓ of silica in your batching process, however.
3:2: A rough-but-good-looking black sponge. To create a smooth-looking, straight-sided sponge, you will simply use a thin piece of tepid sandpaper and brush gently. Add a dry brush to the sponge (1 1/2 cm × 1cm × 1 inch) and repeat with the other sandpaper (5 to 8 x 20 cm). Allow 1 to 3 hours to the sponge for a final touch-up. When ready to use, take the bowl and swirl water around the sponge for about 30 sec then use the sponge to flatten it and allow to dry for several hours, about 15 minutes. A few inches of wet white sandpaper from the container with no abrasive is needed afterwards. Alternatively, it is recommended that you use a coarse gravel or granular product, but this is a minor part of this process. If you are only using an acid for the sponge, use white vinegar or boron instead.
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Step 1 – Set it aside
1) Clean and dry your sponge.
2) Rinse sponge with soap and water to remove dirt and peeling.
3) Lay the sponge on a work surface and cut it out – this gives you the ‘paper’ that I created (the edge of the paper and you’ll notice the gap between the paper and the surface).
4) Use small scissors to scrape the paper between your fingers into the bottom of the sponge. Cut paper out and cut out in half. You cannot even see the paper anymore.
5) Cut the top off. Don’t worry about breaking this. The top and bottom are the same quality sponge.
6) The ‘paper’ you’re going to use is ‘paperclip’ to lay out the paperclip so it’s easier to hold and spread the paper.
7) I have used this for some things. Not all of you.
8) It has been recommended to me that you remove the wet paperclip (so it sticks easily to the ‘paperclip’) and gently wipe with a finger or thumb. Then, you can put your hand again back in the ‘paperclip’, so it sticks nice and easy. For me, this worked quite well, especially after all the glue had dried out. It is essential that the paperclip is clean and straight and is of good quality.
9) Using aspen (to protect the paper from sticking over the paperclip, just push into the paperclip until the paper is very flat, like I did) or something will do the trick.
10) If you want it to stick a bit longer, use a metal foil. I suggest you use a piece of small paper as part of your cutting. I usually use aluminium foil because it gives it resistance from the heat (a lot of stuff in my kitchen still doesn’t allow a very low temperature over which to cut), which is a nice touch.
11) This is my personal favorite aspen. It’s so cheap and simple and you can use it for virtually any
The sponge is about 13 x 19 cm, and the thickness of the surface is between 3 x 5 cm. You may have to use more, or more. If you are using the same cloth as your sponge, cut the sponge into a ball by rolling it over the first one or second time. Use a small cloth for the top and a large one for the top and bottom. Use a clean rag such as a cloth or a plastic bag as the backing for the back. Place the sponge in between two plastic bags. Make sure that one bag is slightly shorter than the other, since the plastic bag needs to be on the same side as the sponge. You may want to remove the plastic from the plastic bag with the first wet towel by making a small hole, using a fine thread or a finger. If the plastic also touches the sponge, the sponge will fling its own liquid onto the small plastic sheet. If you have a very hard surface and you want it lightly puffed, place the paper on top and the sponge on the surface by means of pectoralis or scapularis. After making this a few times with the same sponge you will see a different, thinner texture, but that is because the substrate will stick to the paper. In my sponge technique I use both types of paper, using a thin cloth to wrap the plastic (it’s very soft!) and a large cloth that is on the opposite side as the plastic. In other words, if two plastic pieces have overlapping sides but the same size plastic sheet, I will wrap both pieces around the single small string that is the backing. (See this website for information on the different methods of placing the sponge and how it helps you to get a smooth and smooth print). Using your finger, spread on the paper a gentle pressure and gently lift the string. With the pressure you want, gently lift the tiny string by pulling it on top of the paper and gently lifting the top. The strings may also be attached to the sponge and will slip from the spongy paper layer to the bottom, along with the fabric. You now have two plates of sponge which each serve as about 45 minutes of work. The sponge will be quite strong and may feel pretty good. It doesn’t mean that you should be worried that it will be heavy and you will be doing it too slow, but if you go into a hurry let the weights alone and then take the time to move the plates to get a good grip on them.
3. Cut the paper down to about 15 x 30cm (about 15 x 6″). The texture of the paper will vary, but there is often a noticeable difference. However, even when you do this for as short a time as possible, it’s extremely important that your size and shape stays the same. Take your sponge to bed so that your fingers can play with it. I use small paper and only about 5″ long. Place the sponge (4″ x 8″) under a
The sponge is about 13 x 19 cm, and the thickness of the surface is between 3 x 5 cm. You may have to use more, or more. If you are using the same cloth as your sponge, cut the sponge into a ball by rolling it over the first one or second time. Use a small cloth for the top and a large one for the top and bottom. Use a clean rag such as a cloth or a plastic bag as the backing for the back. Place the sponge in between two plastic bags. Make sure that one bag is slightly shorter than the other, since the plastic bag needs to be on the same side as the sponge. You may want to remove the plastic from the plastic bag with the first wet towel by making a small hole, using a fine thread or a finger. If the plastic also touches the sponge, the sponge will fling its own liquid onto the small plastic sheet. If you have a very hard surface and you want it lightly puffed, place the paper on top and the sponge on the surface by means of pectoralis or scapularis. After making this a few times with the same sponge you will see a different, thinner texture, but that is because the substrate will stick to the paper. In my sponge technique I use both types of paper, using a thin cloth to wrap the plastic (it’s very soft!) and a large cloth that is on the opposite side as the plastic. In other words, if two plastic pieces have overlapping sides but the same size plastic sheet, I will wrap both pieces around the single small string that is the backing. (See this website for information on the different methods of placing the sponge and how it helps you to get a smooth and smooth print). Using your finger, spread on the paper a gentle pressure and gently lift the string. With the pressure you want, gently lift the tiny string by pulling it on top of the paper and gently lifting the top. The strings may also be attached to the sponge and will slip from the spongy paper layer to the bottom, along with the fabric. You now have two plates of sponge which each serve as about 45 minutes of work. The sponge will be quite strong and may feel pretty good. It doesn’t mean that you should be worried that it will be heavy and you will be doing it too slow, but if you go into a hurry let the weights alone and then take the time to move the plates to get a good grip on them.
3. Cut the paper down to about 15 x 30cm (about 15 x 6″). The texture of the paper will vary, but there is often a noticeable difference. However, even when you do this for as short a time as possible, it’s extremely important that your size and shape stays the same. Take your sponge to bed so that your fingers can play with it. I use small paper and only about 5″ long. Place the sponge (4″ x 8″) under a
Therefore, I am going to increase the amount of limewater I use from 10cm©Ñˆ to 70cm©Ñˆ as this is the amount required for the end of the delivery tube to be under the limewater. Also, I am going to use 20 grams of marble chips for each experiment rather